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«On the occasion of the Spìule Chardonnay DOC FCO 2015 preview, Tuesday May 23rd we organized a tasting dedicated to some native white vines produced along the 45th parallel, starting from Valle d’Aosta to reach Georgia, the cradle of the vine” – said Marta Locatelli, owner of Tenuta di Angoris. – “For this tasting we have chosen wines obtained from native grapes, that are recognized in the vine-growing tradition of the countries where they are produced.»
After the meeting of 2015 focused on Chardonnay, and the last year dedicated to the native red wines for ageing, this year’s theme concerned the wine-growing history that connects this strip of land that from the area of origin of the vine reaches the Alps, focusing on specific native white grape vines.
Before the tasting, Stefano Cosma (professional taster, wine writer and wine historian), explained the standard, he used for choosing the wines. «An important fact that has driven us towards these territories to reach Georgia, concerns the historical presence of schools of viticulture and oenology that starting from 1870 were founded in the Kingdom of Italy and the Habsburg Empire: Alba (1881), Asti (1872), Conegliano (1876), San Michele all’Adige (1874), Poreč (1875), without forgetting the minor ones such as Vipacco (1873) and, on the other hand, the agrarian Society of Gorizia that dates back to the far 1765.»
These schools are testimony to the fact that the most appreciated wines in Europe were produced at this latitude, and that students and teachers came here even from far away areas of the Empire! Moreover, although the latitude chosen is more or less the same, the land (along these 3500 kilometres) is certainly different: this fact, however, did not slow down (since the second half of the 19th century) the desire to experiment, by implanting the varieties Aleatico, Mosler, Pinot Grigio, Frontignan, Riesling, Alicante and Isabella (of which the musts were analysed in 1847), and in 1872 in Cormons were planted, the Carmener, Gros-bi-dure and Gros-Verdot from Bordeaux, Czerlienak from Dalmatia, Kadarka from Hungary and other varieties from the Rhine, Piedmont, Istria, etc. Proving not only the vocation of this land for viticulture, but also the deep interest of man towards this kind of knowledge. Also, the fact that the fairs were developed during that period, and that at the Fiera di Trieste in 1888 were present the most important wines produced throughout the empire, shows the enormous interest and importance that noble families had for this type of agricultural production. The Locatelli family also brought their wines produced at Angoris in the year 1887, obtaining honourable mentions.
A significant quote was read by Cosma from a Romanian Book of 1962, which shows a sentence of the Doge Loredan’s doctor, who in 1502 found himself in the renowned wine area of Cotnari (Moldova) and from there, on December 7th of that year, wrote to his family in Venice : “In August and September here they make wines of the sort of Friuli”.
«The fact that the two wines in tasting (Friulano and Ribolla Gialla) were two of the most appreciated wines, ensures that Friuli Venezia Giulia remains a point of reference for the production of white wines. While the historical data presented demonstrate that this region has always been a territory of studies and experimentations that have led to the respect and enhancement of the vines and the land itself over the centuries.» concluded Marta Locatelli.
This is the order of the wines tasted: Blanc de Morgex et de la Salle 2015 DOC Valle d’Aosta (Cave Mont Blanc De Morgex et la Salle Soc. Coop. a Morgex – Ao), Roero Arneis 2015 DOCG (Vietti Srl a Castiglione Falletto – CN), Nosiola IGT (Az. Agr. Pojer e Sandri di Faedo – TN), Friulano 2015 DOC Friuli Colli Orientali (Tenuta di Angoris), Ribolla Gialla DOC Collio 2015 (Carlo di Pradis a Cormons), Zelen 2015 Vipavska Dolina (Vinska Klet Guerila a Ajdovščina – SLO), Žlahtina 2015 (Vinogorje Krk di P.Z. Vrbnik a Vrbnik – HR), Grasӑ De Cotnari 2015 DOC C.T. (Cotnari a Castel Vladoianu – RO), Aligotè DOC Podgoria Sarica Niculiţel (La Sapata a Loc. Somova Jud. Tulcea – RO), Feteaska Albӑ 2014 (Purcari Chateaux a Purcari – MD), Tsinandali 2015 (Binekhi a Tbilisi – GE) e Tsinandali 2013 (Badagoni a Village Zemo Khodasheni – GE).
The panel of tasters included Marta Locatelli, owner, Alessandro Dal Zovo (winemaker and technical director of the winery), Stefano Cosma, Michael Loos (internationally renowned designer who has collaborated in numerous projects related to the promotion of Italian wine, and curator of a monthly “oenological” section on Vanity Fair), Gianni Ottogalli (Italian Sommelier Association Friuli Venezia Giulia and manager of Gambero Rosso Guide for Friuli Venezia Giulia), Mario Busso (creator and curator of the guide Vinibuoni d’italia), Carlo Petrussi (agronomist and researcher of viticulture and oenology of Friuli Venezia Giulia), Bepi Pucciarelli (professional taster, journalist and profound connoisseur of food and wine culture), Adriano Del Fabro (agricultural engineer, agrarian and agribusiness journalist) and Gianluca Castellano (Professional sommelier and maître of the restaurant “Agli Amici”).
The event developed in three particular moments: the tasting in winery in the morning and the Ampelographic lecture by Professor Carlo Petrussi, the aperitif at Brignoli Agrarian Institute in Gradisca D’isonzo (where “Emopoli” projects was presented to the guests: the sparkling Classical method that students of oenology and viticulture have already been producing for 5 years, in collaboration with the Tenuta di Angoris) and lunch at Villa Locatelli.